It began at 10:02pm as I joined other travelers in a race from the gate to the train, arms flailing to be first to sit down in our assigned bed. Yes, all the beds are assigned and yet people still feel the need to run at full speed to the train, clog up the door, squeeze their way in, drag their bag down the aisle hitting people on the way, then settling into their RESERVED space with a look of sheer pride (as if they’ve won something) on their face. This is what it is like to travel in China.

I took a hard sleeper, which is a train car full of bunk beds stacked three-high with a small table and hot water dispenser between each set of bunks. The second and third bunks are sleeping room only. Not even enough space to sit up. The linens were actually very nice, as were the light blue curtains covering the window. I saw a similar set covering John Travolta’s bedroom window in “Saturday Night Fever.” Which brings me to the atmosphere on the train. I felt like I was in a disco dance club on wheels. There was music BLARING on numerous speakers throughout the cabin, the lights were going on and off as the wheels of the train turned, people were yelling, and there were drinks everywhere!

I was one of maybe four foreigners on the entire train, which meant life story time. Where was I from? Why was I travelling to China? Did I like China? Did I want to buy some instant noodles? While I was frustrated at first, after a few minutes I realized that this was just train culture in China, and I wanted to fit in, so I played along. Just as our conversation got going, the lights went out and the music turned off. Within seconds, everyone on the train had taken off their shoes, hopped into their bunk, and fallen into a deep sleep. Finally total silence, except now I wanted to chat! Unfortunately, it seemed options were limited. As I picked up my phone to send a quick text message, my bunkmate to the left rolled over and said, “Phone too bright. Go to sleep!” This was the same woman who was practically leading the conga line ten minutes ago! I fell in line and went to sleep.

Only to be woken up at 6am by the same music, talking, and noise that I had remembered from the night before. Apparently, as soon as the sun comes up, so do the music and the people. It’s utterly bazaar, but all the people on the train literally slept from the moment the lights shut off to the minute the sun came up. It wasn’t just a few people, but everyone on the train who followed these unspoken rules. Since I had a bottom bunk, my bed became a seat for anyone who felt like sitting, which left me lying there behind four people who plopped down to enjoy some morning noodles. There are just some things you have to deal with when you travel to China.